Silver Threads Quilt Guild




     

Workshops and Activities


Classes and Trunk Show/Lecture

Quilt Shows

Guild Day

Demos

Field Trips

Workshops

Challenge Quilt

Block of the Month 2009

Block of the Month 2008

Tips 2009

Tips 2008

CLASSES AND TRUNK SHOW/LECTURE


APQS brings our quality line of quilting machines to you with our Road Show! Our crew travels all across the USA to give you hands-on demonstrations of our quilting machines. APQS Quilting Seminars are one-day learning events open to all quilters who want to test drive our machines. Find a location near you.

This seminar is designed for quilters who do not currently own a longarm machine and want to learn all they can before investing in a quilting machines. Bring a notebook and pen, plus all your questions - we'll answer them!

Here is just a sample of what you'll learn...

Supplier Information - Discover resources for templates, batting, patterns, freehand instruction manuals, wholesale contacts, thread, etc.

Business Ideas - Learn business philosophies, products and services, pricing, marketing and income forecasting. (You'll even get a Sample Business Plan to get you up and running right away!)

Machine Features - Explore the differences between each machine model including standard and optional features, table & frame designs, etc.

Basic Machine Maintenance - See how easy it is to oil, clean, and service your machine to provide years of quilting fun!

Each session includes ample time for your questions and to test drive the Millennium, Freedom, and Lenni longarm quilting machines.

March 29, 2010 - Road Show Coming to Niceville, FL

To test-drive our machines, sign up for the seminar on Monday from 9 a.m. to Noon. Location: Patty Butcher, Katydids Studio, 105 Dominica Way, Niceville, FL 32578; 850-729-0873.

Call Alison at 800-426-7233 to reserve your seat now!

Contact: Alison Bauer | 800-426-7233 | Email

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QUILT SHOWS:


Quilt show: Panama City- the Visual Arts Center of Northwest Florida presents Quilt National. The Best of Contemporary Quilts marks its 30th anniversary with this biennial juried show and traveling exhibit. Also exhibiting are local quilts from the group Women on the Fringe. They meet the first Wednesday of the month at the South Walton County library to share and learn from each other. Call Mary K. McGraw at 850-258-5813. Quilt National will run through March 14. Free admission. The center is at 19 East Fourth St. Call 850-769-4451.

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GUILD DAY:


     

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DEMONSTRATIONS:




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FIELD TRIPS:






WORKSHOPS:






CHALLENGE QUILTS:



     2010 CHALLENGE

Still time to order a piece of the Challenge fabric at our March meeting!!
There are two rules this year:

1. You buy a piece of the challenge fabric for $1.00
2. You make a 12 1/2" block using some or all of the Challenge Fabric. Your
     block can contain as much or as little of the Challenge fabric as you choose.
     The block can be appliqué, pieced or a combination of both)

The blocks will be judged by the members at our October meeting and prizes awarded!

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BLOCK OF THE MONTH:




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2009 Block of the Month Blocks



December Block - Windmill Star
(Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

Dec09 BOTM.gif - 15237 Bytes

You will need:

Red:     Four-Four inch squares

White:     Eight-Four inch squares

Blue:     Four-Four inch squares

Pair four red squares with four white squares and then pair four blue squares with the remaining four white squares. Draw a diagonal line on each of the white squares and sew one quarter inch away from the drawn line on both sides of the line. Cut apart on the drawn line and press toward the darker fabric. Trim to three and one half inches. Now lay the block out in rows according to the diagram. Stitch the horizontal rows together and then stitch the rows together to make the block. Block should measure twelve and a half inches unfinished.

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November Block - Musketeer’s Star
(Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

Nov09BOTM.jpg - 53799 Bytes

You will need:

Red:     One-two and one half inch strip by approximately twelve inches long
            Two-five and one quarter inch squares cut on the diagonal twice to make eight triangles

White:     One-five and one quarter inch square cut on the diagonal twice to make four triangles
              Two-two and seven eighths inch squares cut on the diagonal once to make four triangles
              Two-two and one half inch strips by approximately twelve inches long

Light Blue:     Two-two and seven eighths inch squares cut once on the diagonal

Blue:     One-five and one quarter inch square cut on the diagonal twice to make four triangles
             One-two and one half inch strip by approximately twelve inches long

Prepare your strip sets first by sewing a white strip and a red strip together. Press toward the red. Next, sew a white strip to a blue strip. Press toward the blue. Cut these strip sets into two and one half inch segments. Make the four patch units as show in the diagram. Make the center square by pairing the small white triangles with the light blue triangles and stitching them together. Lay out as in the diagram and stitch the half square triangles together to form the center square. Referring to the diagram, make the quarter square triangles by pairing four large red and four large blue triangles together and stitch. Then use the remaining red triangles paired with the large white triangles and stitch. Press toward the darker fabric on both triangle sets. Pair the sets together as shown in the diagram and stitch the unit. Make four. Now lay the block out in rows. Stitch the horizontal rows together and then stitch the rows together to make the block. Block should measure twelve and a half inches unfinished.

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October Block - Star Block 2
(Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

Oct 09 BOTM.jpg - 37206 Bytes

You will need:

This block is constructed of all half square triangles except for the corner squares in each section.

Red: Six-Two and one half inch (2 1/2") squares to layer with white squares for half square triangles. You will need to square up to two inches (2").

White: Four-Three and one half inch (3 1/2") squares for corners.
     Four-Four inch (4") squares to layer with blue squares for half square triangles. You will need to square up to three and a half inches (3 1/2").
     Six-Two and one half inch (2 1/2") squares to layer with the red squares for half square triangles. You will need to square up to two inches (2").
     Four-Two inch (2") squares for the inner corners.

Blue: Four-Four inch (4") squares to layer with the white squares for half square triangles. You will need to square up to three and a half inches (3 1/2").

     Layer the red and white two and one half inch squares. Draw a diagonal line and sew one quarter inch away on both sides of the drawn line. Cut on the drawn line. Square up. Layer the blue and white four inch squares. Draw a diagonal line and sew one quarter inch away on both sides of the drawn line. Cut on the drawn line. Square up. Lay out the center of the block (the red and white section) according to the diagram. Sew patches together in rows and sew the rows together to make the center section. Lay out the blue half square triangles and white corner patches according to the diagram. Sew two sets of half square triangles together to make the side sections (on each side of the red section). Sew these units to the center block on each side. Sew the top and bottom rows and attach to the center section. Block should measure twelve and a half inches unfinished.

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September Block- Aunt Addie’s Album (modified)
(Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

Sept 09 BOTM.jpg - 41781 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Two-four and one quarter inch (4 1/4") squares cut once on the diagonal.

White: One-seven and one quarter inch (7 1/4") square cut twice on the diagonal-flying geese
     Four-three and one half inch (3 1/2") squares-corners
     One-four and three quarters inch (4 3/4") square-center

Blue: Two-three and seven eighths inch (3 7/8") squares cut once on the diagonal
     Two-four and one quarter inch (4 1/4") squares cut once on the diagonal

     Using the white four and three quarter inch square and the triangles cut from the blue three and seven eighths inch squares, assemble the center square in a square. Then make four half square triangles using the triangles cut from the four and a quarter inch blue and red squares. After making the red and blue half square triangles, press well, true up if necessary and cut from corner to corner in the opposite direction of the sewn line. Use these units and the triangles cut from the seven and a quarter inch white square to make the flying geese units. Lay out the block in rows. Sew the units together in rows and sew the rows together to make the block. Block should measure twelve and a half inches unfinished.

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August Block- Martha Washington Star
(Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

Aug09 BOTM.jpg - 44638 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Four-Three and seven eighths inch (3 7/8") squares cut once on the diagonal.

White: Four-Three and one half inch squares (corners)
     One-Seven and one quarter inch (7 1/4") square cut on the diagonal twice (flying geese centers)
     Two-Three and seven eighths inch (3 7/8") squares cut once on the diagonal (larger triangles in the center)
     One-Four and one quarter inch (4 1/4") square cut on the diagonal twice (smaller center triangles)

Blue: One-Four and one quarter inch (4 1/4") square cut on the diagonal twice (smaller center triangles)

     Sew the small white and blue triangles together in pairs following color placement in the diagram. Sew each of these pairs to a medium white triangle to make the center squares. Lay out the center squares and assemble as show in the diagram. Construct the flying geese units using the large white triangles and the medium red triangles. Lay out the block in rows. Sew the units together in rows and sew the rows together to make the block. Block should measure twelve and a half inches unfinished

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July Block Tumbling Star (Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

BOTM-Jul09.jpg - 44928 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Cut one-six and one quarter inch (6 1/4") square. Cut once on the diagonal to make four triangles.
     Cut four-two inch (2") squares-mark a diagonal line on the back of these.

White: Cut one-six and one quarter inch (6 1/4") square. Cut on the diagonal twice to make four triangles
     Cut four-four inch (4") squares for the corners
     Cut one-five and one half inch (5 1/2") square for the center

Blue: Cut two-six and one quarter inch (6 1/4") squares. Cut twice on the diagonal to make eight triangles

Start with the five and a half inch (5 1/2") center (white) and the two inch (2") red squares. Place the red squares on the four corners of the white square so that the diagonal line you drew cuts across the corners of the white square. Stitch on the diagonal line and trim one quarter inch away. This forms a snowball type block. Press toward the small triangle.

Use the triangles from the six and one quarter inch (6 1/4") squares to make four hourglass blocks. The blocks will have one white triangle, two blue triangles, and one red triangle. Note the placement of the colors in the diagram above. After all four hourglass blocks are made, trim the blocks to five and one half inch by four inches (5 1/2" x 4"). NOTE: TRIM AWAY THE RED SIDE OF THE BLOCK, NOT THE WHITE SIDE. Lay the block out as in the diagram. Sew the units together to make the rows and the rows together to make the block. Note that the seams of the red triangles should crisscross one quarter inch (1/4") below the raw edges. This should give you perfect points. Block should measure twelve and a half inches (12 1/2") unfinished.

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June Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

Jun BOTM09.jpg - 41032 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Six-three and seven eighths inch(3 7/8") squares

White: Eight-three and seven eighths inch(3 7/8") squares

Blue: One-four and three quarters inch(4 3/4") square

Layer a red and a white three and seven eighths inch(3 7/8") square right sides together. Mark a diagonal line from one corner to the other. Stitch on each side of the line one-quarter inch(1/4") away from the line. Cut on the drawn line. Press the seam toward the red fabric. Repeat five more times. Cut the other two white squares diagonally once. Sew one triangle to one side of the square. Sew a second triangle to the opposing side of the blue square. Press and repeat for the other two sides. Lay the squares out in rows as pictured. Sew the units together to make the rows and the rows together to make the block. Block should measure twelve and a half inches(12 ½") unfinished.

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May Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

MAY09BOTM.jpg - 37212 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Cut four-two and three eighths inch (2 3/8") squares. Cut on the diagonal once.

White: One-seven and a quarter inch (7 1/4") square cut twice on the diagonal.
     Four-two inch (2") squares.
     One-four and one quarter inch (4 1/4") square cut on the diagonal twice.
     Five-three and a half inch (3 1/2") squares.

Blue: Cut four-three and seven eighths inch (3 7/8") squares. Cut on the diagonal once.

Using the white triangles cut from the four and a quarter inch square and the red triangles, make four flying geese units. Following the diagram, construct the center star using these flying geese units, the center (one of the three and a half inch squares), and the four-two inch squares. Sew them in rows as you would for a larger block. Next, using the blue triangles and the white triangles cut from the seven and a quarter inch square, make four more flying geese units. Following the diagram, lay the block out in three rows using the star unit just made as the center of the middle row. Sew the units together to make the rows and the rows together to make the block. Block should measure twelve and a half inches unfinished.

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April Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

Apr BOTM09.jpg - 28412 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Two-Three and seven eighths inch(3 7/8") squares

White: Four-Three and one half inch(3 1/2") squares and Four-Three and one half(3 1/2") by six and one half inch(6 1/2") rectangles

Blue: Two-Three and seven eighths inch(3 7/8") squares and Eight-Three and one half inch(3 1/2") squares


Use the blue and the red three and seven eighths inch(3 7/8") squares to make the half square triangles. Use the blue three and one half inch(3 1/2") squares and the white rectangles to make the flying geese. Lay the block out in rows and stitch. Then stitch the rows together to make the block.

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March Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

MarchBOTM.jpg - 35610 Bytes

You will need:

Red: One-four and one half inch (4 ½") square

White: Four-four and one half inch (4 ½") squares

     Two-four and seven eighths inch(4 7/8") squares (or a bit larger if you prefer to trim afterward)

Blue: Two-four and seven eighths inch (4 7/8") squares (or a bit larger if you prefer to trim afterward)

Layer the blue and white four and seven eighths inch (4 7/8") squares. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Stitch one-fourth inch (¼”) from the drawn line. Cut on the drawn line. Trim to four and one half inches (4 ½") if you cut larger. Lay out according to diagram. Sew into rows and sew the rows into the block. The block should measure twelve and one half inches (12 ½").

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February Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch (12 ½") unfinished block)

BOTM FEB09.jpg - 43693 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Two-five and one quarter inch (5 ¼”) squares (cut a bit larger if you prefer to trim)

White: Four-four and one half inch (4 ½”) squares and Two-five and one quarter inch (5 ¼”) squares (cut a bit larger if you prefer to trim)

Blue: One-four and one half inch (4 ½”) square

Layer a red and a white five and one quarter inch square right sides together. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Stitch one quarter inch on both sides of the line. Cut on the marked line. Press to the dark. Layer these same squares right sides together on top of each other with colors opposing each other; in other words, layer red on white and white on red. Make sure the seams match and then draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Stitch one quarter inch on both sides of the line. Cut apart on the marked line. Square up if needed. Repeat with the second set of red and white five and one quarter inch squares. Lay the block out using the diagram above. Sew into rows and sew rows together to make the block.

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January Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Jan09 BOTM.gif - 11067 Bytes

You will need:

Red: Eight-three and one half inch (3 ½”) squares

White: Four-six and one half by three and one half inch (6 ½” X 3 ½”)rectangles and four-three and one half inch (3 ½”) squares

Blue: One-six and one half inch (6 ½”) square for center

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2008 Block of the Month Blocks


Block-December Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Dec BOTM.jpg - 75456 Bytes

You will need:

Light:

     Four-two and one half inch by eight and one half inch rectangles.
     Four-one and one half inch by four and one half inch rectangles.
     Eight-one and one half inch squares.
     Two-two and seven eighths inch squares.
     One-two and one half inch square.

Dark:

     Two-one and one half inch by six and one half inch rectangles.
     Four-one and one half inch by two and one half inch rectangles.
     Two-one and one half inch by eight and one half inch rectangles.
     Two-two and seven eighths inch squares.

Make the half square triangles using the light and dark two and seven eighths inch squares. Set aside. Sew a dark one and one half inch by two and one half inch rectangle to the left and right sides of the two and one half inch light square. Press seams to the darker fabric. Sew a one and one half inch light square to each end of the remaining one and one half inch by two and one half inch dark rectangles. Press toward the darker fabric. Sew the two pieced strips to the top and bottom of the first unit. Sew a light one and one half inch by four and one half inch strip to the left and right of the center section. Then sew a light one and one half inch square to each end of the light one and one half inch by four and one half inch rectangles. Press seams toward the center section. Make two. Sew to the top and bottom of the center section. Next sew the dark one and one half inch by six and one half inch rectangles to the top and bottom of the center section. Press seams to the darker fabric. Add the one and one half inch by eight and one half inch rectangles to the sides of the block. Press seams toward the darker fabric. Sew two light two and one half inch by eight and one half inch light rectangles to the sides of the block. Sew the half square triangles to the ends of the remaining two and one half inch by eight and one half inch light rectangles following diagram. Press seams to the center section. Finally, add the half square sections to the top and bottom to complete the block.

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November Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Nov BOTM.jpg - 74679 Bytes

You will need:

Light:
     Four-four and one half inch squares

Dark:
     Ten-two and one half inch by four and one half inch rectangles

Sew two of the rectangles together on the short side. Press seam to one side. Repeat to make two of these units. (Unit One) Then sew a rectangle to one side of a square. Press seam to the dark fabric. Repeat to make two of these units. (Unit Two) Sew a rectangle to the top and bottom of each of the remaining squares to make two more units. Press seam to the dark fabric. (Unit Three) Sew a unit one to the left side of a unit 3. Press toward the outer rectangles. Make two of these. Then, add a unit two to the top of this section. Press seam toward the bottom. Repeat to make two of these. Following the diagram, sew the two halves together to complete the block.

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October Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Oct BOTM.jpg - 75904 Bytes

You will need:

Light:

     Four-four and seven eighths inch squares
     One-four and one half inch square

Dark:

     Four-four and seven eighths inch squares
     One-four and one half inch square

Layer the light and dark four and seven eighths inch squares to make eight half square triangles. You will use seven and have one left over. Lay out squares following the diagram. Sew together in rows and sew the rows together to make the block.

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September Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Sept BOTM.jpg - 42988 Bytes

You will need:

Light:

     Eight-three and one half inch squares

     Two-three and seven eighths inch squares

Dark:

     Four-three and one half inch squares

     Two-three and seven eighths inch squares

Use the three and seven eighths inch squares to make the half square triangles. Lay the block out. Sew in rows and sew the rows together to make the block. The block should measure twelve and one half inches unfinished.

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August Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Aug BOTM.jpg - 38743 Bytes

You will need:
Light:

     Eight squares-two and five eighths by two and five eighths (for half square triangles)

     Four strips-two inches by five and three fourths inches (center strips)

Dark:

     Eight squares-two and five eighths by two and five eighths (for half square triangles)

     Four squares-two and a quarter by two and a quarter (for corners)

     One square-two inches by two inches (for center)

     Four squares-four inches by four inches (the section that the half square triangles are attached to)

A few lines of directions-

Make half square triangles using the eight light and eight dark-two and five eighths inch squares. Lay these out (according to the diagram) with the four inch squares. Sew two half square triangles together to make one section and sew to the side of the four inch squares. Sew the other two half square triangles together and add a two and one quarter inch square to make another section. Sew this to the four inch unit. Make four of these units. Place a light strip in between two of these units to make the top row. Repeat for a second set. Make a row out of the remaining two light strips having the small two inch square in the center. (See diagram) Sew the rows together to make the block.

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July Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

July BOTM.jpg - 26427 Bytes

This block is made from all half square triangles, but if you prefer, you could make four flying geese units and eight half square units. Adjust cutting if you decide to use the flying geese units.

You will need:

Light:

     Eight-three and seven eighths inch squares

Dark:

     Eight-three and seven eighths inch squares

Make half square triangles and layout according to diagram. Sew together in rows and sew rows together to make the block. Since I made a mistake on the number of squares to cut last month, (so sorry) some of you may already have some half square triangles ready to go.

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June Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

June BOTM.jpg - 27886 Bytes

This block is made from all half square triangles, but if you prefer, you could make four flying geese units and two half square units. Adjust cutting if you decide to use the flying geese units.

You will need:

  Light:

     Six-three and one half inch squares
     Ten-three and seven eighths inch squares

  Dark:

     Ten-three and seven eighths inch squares

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May Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)
May BOTM.gif - 5309 Bytes
You will need:

Light:

     Two-three and one half inch squares
     Six-three and seven eighths squares for half square triangles

Dark:
     Two-three and one half inch squares
     Six-three and seven eighths squares for half square triangles




Block of the Month

     Don’t forget to complete the proper slip of paper to get credit for your charity items. Your block of the month donation earns you a charity slip. With that said, here is our sixth block. You can make these blocks in ANY color, not just the color shown.

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April Block- Building Blocks (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

April BOTM.gif - 15702 Bytes

You will need:

Light:
     Eight-one and one half inch squares
     Eight-two and one half inch squares
     Four-four and one half inch squares

Dark:
     Eight-one and one half inch squares
     Four-two and one half inch squares
     One-four and one half inch squares



Don’t forget to complete the proper slip of paper to get credit for your charity items. Your block of the month donation earns you a charity slip. With that said, here is our fifth block. You can make these blocks in ANY color, not just the color shown.


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March Block-Mosaic #10 (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Mar BOTM.jpg - 28475 Bytes

You will need:
Light:
Eight-three and seven eighths inch squares

Dark:
Eight-three and seven eighths inch squares

Layer a light and dark square. Draw a diagonal line and stitch one quarter inch on each side of the line. Cut apart on the drawn line. Square up if necessary and arrange in the above setting. Sew into rows and sew rows into the block.

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February Block- Mosaic Block (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Feb BOTM.jpg - 38064 Bytes

You will need:
Light:
Two-three and seven eighths inch squares cut once on the diagonal for side triangles
One-seven and one quarter inch square cut on the diagonal twice for the corners
One-four and three quarter inch square for center

Dark:
Four-four and three quarter inch squares

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January Block-True Blue (Makes a twelve and a half inch unfinished block)

Jan BOTM.jpg - 24261 Bytes

You will need:
Light:
Two blocks four and seven eighths inches square (or five inches if you prefer to true up later) for half square triangles.
One block four and a half inches square for the center.
Eight blocks two and a half inches square (or if you prefer to sew in a strip, cut a strip approximately twenty two inches by two and a half inches) for four patches.

Dark:
Two blocks four and seven eighths inches square (or five inches if you prefer to true up later) for half square triangles.
Eight blocks two and a half inches square (or if you prefer to sew in a strip, cut a strip approximately twenty two inches by two and a half inches) for four patches.

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Tip of the Month:

If you have a quilting or organizational tip to help us, please let Sheila know so that we can put it in the newsletter. Please don’t assume that you have nothing to offer to someone else. Our guild is a learning and a sharing guild. You have no idea how you might inspire someone else with just sharing a little knowledge that you might not think is important. Your idea or tip might just be the ticket to what someone else might need to know.

2009 Tips


December - If you are trying to cut a dark fabric and the contrast between your cutting mat and the fabric you are cutting is hard to distinguish, slip a piece of white or light colored paper between the mat and the fabric. This will make the edges of the fabric easier to see.

To keep your fresh flowers in your holiday arrangements lasting longer, mix one capful of bleach with two teaspoons of sugar in one gallon water. The bleach helps keep the bacteria from growing and the sugar will help feed the flowers.

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November - To save money, use parchment paper when fusing appliqué pieces together, instead of expensive appliqué pressing sheets. You can also use it to protect your ironing board cover whenever you use any type of fusible webs.

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October - To remove age spots and brighten colors, combine one gallon water with one quart of buttermilk and one Tablespoon of lemon juice. Soak the quilt and then wash with mild soap. The natural ingredients are safe with no danger of damage to the quilt.

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September - Make your own ironing aid by mixing 2 cups of distilled water, 2 ounces of cheap vodka, and 15-20 drops of 100% essential oil of lavender, (or any other fragrance, usually found at a health food store). Add lavender water to iron or use as a spray on. If this writing appears a little fuzzy-stop drinking the vodka and add it to the ironing aid recipe!

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August - Before cutting fabric for your quilt, trim the selvages from the entire length of fabric at about ¾”. Use these selvages to knit or crochet rugs, candle mats, or table mats. For another idea, see the October issue of McCall’s Quilting (page 76) for an unusual use of selvages.

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July - When shopping for fabric for a quilt, write down the colors and yardage amounts on individual sticky notes (i.e. borders-3 yards, focal fabric 2 yards, accent fabric 1 yard, etc.) As you choose fabrics, transfer the sticky note to the end of the bolt. After the fabric is cut, transfer the sticky note to the fabric so you will know at a glance what fabric you have chosen for each quilt element.

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June - Any time you need to travel with your iron, be sure to take along a pull top bottle filled with distilled water to refill your iron. This is especially helpful at quilt classes or retreats and helps to avoid spills.

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May - If you have some old patterns that you are just going to throw out, save the tissue paper and use it to trace paper-piecing patterns. The paper will tear out easier than regular paper.

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April - When buying fusible material for your quilting projects, ask the clerk for the directions that come with the fusible. When you get home you can make a bag out of the material the directions are printed on by simply sewing the directions right sides together and stitching the side seams. Turn the directions right side out and store the fusible inside the bag you have just made. That way, you will know what kind of fusible material you have and you will always have the directions for that particular fusible material.

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March - If you don’t have a ruler rack, a folder rack from an office supply store would be a great place to store your rulers. You know, the black metal one that has the upside down looking “U’s”. Simply place the larger rulers in the back and the smaller ones in the front.

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February - This month’s tip is dedicated to those who have had problems with getting fusible products on their iron. Here are several ways we have heard of to clean your iron.

      1. Dampen a terry washcloth and sprinkle a teaspoon or so of salt on it. Run the heated iron back and forth over the salt until the iron is clean.

      2. Use a fabric softener sheet. Heat your iron (no steam) and iron the fabric softener sheet until the fusible is removed. It may take several sheets depending on how badly soiled the iron is. The perfume free sheets are better since there won’t be any smell when the iron touches them.

      3. Rubbing alcohol will aid in the removal of fusible products.

      4. Aluminum foil is another way to clean your iron. Crumple up the foil and then open it back up and move your hot iron back and forth on the foil. You can even scrunch up a tip on the foil and clean out around the holes on the bottom of the iron. This was only tested on a Teflon surface, but it does state that it did not scratch the iron surface.

      5. If you have also gotten the fusible on your ironing board cover, fuse and stitch an appliqué to your ironing board cover. Who will know you weren’t just being creative?

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January - When you have to remove stitching and you have those little leftover threads where you have unstitched, remove them by gently rubbing an emery board over the threads. They will catch on the emery board and will be easier to remove.

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2008 Tips


December - To go along with your stash buster ideas: When you have leftover pieces of binding, save them in a plastic baggie. When you have several pieces, join them together and when you get your scrappy quilt done; you may have enough scrappy binding to bind it.

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November - We all mark a lot of diagonal lines on half square triangles and fly geese units. This month’s tip comes from Fons and Porter Magazine and Ruby Deputy. When marking the diagonal lines on these units, try using an emery board. It will keep the fabric from moving and it doesn’t slip when marking.

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October - An empty plastic iced tea mix container makes a great holder for those rolling lint rollers. It’s easier than trying to wrap the paper back around the roller. Also, use the silica packs you find in shoes, purses, or medication bottles to tuck in with your needles and pins to help keep them rust free.

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September - Don’t throw away the spindle you get when you purchase a pack of 50 or 100 CD’s for your computer. Just pop a spool of thread on the spindle and start sewing. The spindle makes a great thread holder.

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August - If you have directions for a pattern and you know you will be making the item several times, laminate the sheet so that when you cut the pieces listed, you can mark them off with a dry erase marker. When you are finished with the laminated sheet, simply wipe off the marks and re-file your directions for future use.

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July - Have you ever been hand sewing or quilting and find that your thimble keeps slipping off your finger? Next time you put your thimble on, wet the end of your finger. This makes a bit of a vacuum and your thimble won’t come off so easily.

     The second tip I have this month directs you to a website you may or may not be familiar with. Go to www.quiltville.com and plan to spend a little time looking at what this amazing person has on her website. For those of you who know anything about the Dear Jane quilt, look at her Storm at Sea Setting. Also check out her Nearly Insane quilt. A couple of those 6 inch blocks have over 200 pieces in them. This lady has tips, free patterns, a mystery quilt pattern, and some of the most unique scrap quilts I have seen. I am still wondering how she manages to accomplish so much in the same amount of time that I have!

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June - If you are making a rag quilt, instead of cutting into your seam allowance, try using a seam ripper. Insert it just past the stitching and rip toward the raw edge.

     Also, tall CD towers make a great place to store fat quarters. Fat quarters can be organized by color and are a beautiful splash of color in your sewing room.

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May - If you are wondering what to do with that little strip or square of fabric left over after a project, if you have a piece large enough that you hesitate to discard but you can't think how to use it, use the Ziplock Storage bag system and mark sizes 1", "1 ½”, 2" , 2 ½” strips or 2", 3", 4" or 5” squares on them. Cut up the remaining remnant to one of these sizes and deposit the piece in the appropriate bag. When the bag is full, sew the pieces together and you'll have a good sized piece of fabric to cut into blocks to make a very 'scrappy quilt'. This is a great way to use leftover fabric and make a comfort quilt to donate without added expense. For those who have purchased the Scrapbuster ruler, just use your ruler to cut the strips or blocks for your next scrappy strip or charm quilt.

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April - When you’re sewing sashing strips and blocks together, stitch both sides of the sashing in the same direction. This will prevent those diagonal lines, also known as “fabric shear”. Also, when you’re stitching cotton fabrics, try using a denim/jeans 80/12 or 70/10 microtex needle and your straight stitch throat plate. Since universal needles are not sharp, they tend to just find the nearest spot between threads instead of actually piercing the fabric. The straight stitch throat plate should help reduce the amount of fabric that is pulled down into the throat plate hole. This should also give you straighter seams.

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March - Always take just a minute to update your roster with new members and their information. You never know when you might need to get in touch with a member. Also, every once in a while, go through your stash and make up a kit. Pull a pattern, fabrics, threads, and anything else you need to make a project. Cut the project and put all the items you need in a zip lock bag. Then, when you have a few minutes to sew, you won’t have to decide what to make, you can just pull the kit out and get started.

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February - If you have a hard time determining which side of your fabric is the “right” side, try using those small round sticky dots to mark the “wrong” side of your fabric when cutting out your pieces. This will make finding the “right” quick and easy, especially if you are sewing at night and using darker fabrics. Be sure not to leave the dots on for a long period of time to prevent sticky messes.

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